In today’s world, where fast fashion and digital designs are thriving, hand embroidery still has the kind of timelessness and intricacy to it like none other. From heirloom shawls to delicate thread work on kurtas, embroidery has a special place in the heritage of artwork and has made its way to every South Asian wardrobe. It connects us to our true roots and adds soul to the fabric. Among the most classic embroidery styles in South Asia, Chikankari embroidery is a craft deeply connected to history, culture and sheer skill. It is not just a design statement but more an expression of timeless elegance stitched carefully into every motif and pattern.
The term Chikankari has originated from the word “chikan” which refers to the fine art of embroidery. The history of chikankari embroidery is widely associated with Lucknow India, but exact origins are hard to trace. Many reveal that credits are to be given to the Mughal era, specifically empress Noor Jahan, for introducing the elegance of it in the 16th century.
In the court of mughals, aesthetics inclined towards minimalism, florals and harmony and chikankari embroidery perfectly reflected this taste. Due to which it gained fame in the entire state, especially among nobility, turning white-on-white embroidered craftsmanship into an emblem of refined elegance and luxury. With the widespread of craft came regional adaptations. In pakistan, specially in south punjab, the multani artisans infused their own signature styles. Today, multani chikankari embodies local intricate threadwork and earthy designs, curated to fit occasions of all kinds in its own distinctive style. The craftsmanship is now known for its purity, precision and versatility —qualities that Apka Libas proudly honors through its designs.
Chikankari in its true essence is an embroidery technique done with threads of color on soft, breathy fabrics like cotton, lawn muslin, georgette and chiffon. Unlike mechanical work, every design is traced and then embroidered on with a selection of stitches chosen precisely to add depth, texture and shadow to the fabric. At the heart of chikankari lie its stitches, each a reflection of the artistry of the embroiderer.
Among a variety, here are some of the most popular stitches used in chikankari embroidery:
Bakhiya (Shadow Work): laying the foundation of the design, the stitch is done from the backside to create a shadow like effect on the front.
Phanda and Murri: Small, knot-like stitches, also known as french knots resembling grains. It adds texture to the design enhancing visual appeal.
Jaali Work: one of the most delicate forms, creates a mesh like design giving the fabric lace like appearance.
Keel kangan: twisted stitch, used to outline the motif.
Hool: delicate holes punctuated with a straight stitch. Adding an airy and delicate look.
Each of these require skill, practice and patience, every piece of chikankari fabric tells a different story through its threadwork and design.
From casual wear to wedding statements, chikankari embroidery finds its way to all kinds of wardrobes. Very few styles capture the essence of tradition and elegance as gracefully as chikankari.The versatility that it offers is unmatched —equally suited to minimal everyday wear and elegant formal outfits.
One of the top reasons why chikankari is loved in countries like Pakistan is because of its lightweight and breathability, making it an ideal choice for scorching summers.
A simple, white chikankari kurta paired with plain trousers or shalwar is a go to for many women.
Pastels like peach, mint green and butter yellow are at the front lines in casualwear.
Fusion of chikankari with vintage jewellery and kolhapuri chappals create a perfect, effortless and polished look.
Chikankari three piece suit, with shalwar and dupatta is an ideal set for lunch dates, and casual home gatherings. Offering a hint of grace without being too loud and festive
Chikankari suits have gained popularity even in formal occasions, especially when styled with embellishments:
A chikankari dress with pearl or mukaish work, perfectly suited for eid or semi formal events.
Chiffon and crinkle overlays with chikankari embroidery give a layered elegance.
The craftsmen of Multan have played a huge part in preserving and evolving chikankari embroidery. They are known worldwide for their steady hands, attention to detail and masterwork embroidery. At Apka libas, the artisans work tirelessly to create intricate patterns and styles by using time-honored methods passed down through generations to bring you a unique blend of aesthetic, modern touch, and variety.
They fuse chikankari with local embroidery like kacha tanka and cutwork resulting in a regionally distinctive design which separates it from all other chikankari dresses.These pieces often incorporate bolder motifs and are known for their earthy appeal and durability. The blend of Persian elegance and Multani culture creates a balance of refinement and rustic charm.
At Apka Libas, we take dignity in crafting and promoting these handcrafted works. Every chikankari suit in the collection is a result of dedication, care and love for preserving the heritage and providing customers with sophistication and comfort.
Despite the market being filled with mass produced wear, the question arises: why does chikankari still matter? Here’s why it’s more than just a trend movement:
Chikankari embroidery is handmade and labor intensive, unlike machine made embroidery. Wearing it means showcasing slow fashion, and contributing to lower environmental footprint.
While many fashion trends that pass with seasons, chikankari dresses have stood the test of time for over 400 years now. The everlasting charm ensures they’re always in vogue.
Every piece is an embodiment of the artisan who crafted it. Their hands, their tradition and their dedication, all speaks for itself. In today's world of digital designs, the uniqueness stands out.
Chikankari ranges from cotton kurtas to premium formal pieces. It spans all price points making it readily accessible for a vast audience.
Preserving the beauty of Chikankari Pieces
Because chikankari embroidery is hand done and exquisite, special care should be done to preserve its beauty.
Washing: hand washing in cold water, avoid soaking for longer periods of time and wash in cold water with mild detergent. Avoid soaking for long.
Ironing: reverse the sides to iron. For pieces adorned with embellishments, place a cloth over the garment before ironing.
Storage: Store in airy cotton bags, especially if you are storing chiffon or organza chikankari suits
When you take care of anything, it lasts and stands the test of time. Same goes for your chikankari suits.
Apka Libas is committed to customer care, preference and latest fashion trends. It honors traditional crafts while staying true to everyday fashion requirements. At Apka libas, every single piece is made keeping ethnicity, comfort and longevity in mind.
Apka libas works directly with artisan clusters in multan, recognising their unique skill and hardwork and makes sure it brings you the best in market. When you wear a chikankari dress from apka libas, you are not just embodying a statement, you are honoring craftsmanship, legacy and culture associated with it.
Understanding the traditional chikankari embroidery also means understanding the harmony between ethnicity and modernity. It is so much more than just a piece of fabric, it is the patience of those hands that stitch for hours and versatility of the minds that rebirth the craft season after season.
Whether it's a breathable, soft kurta for day to day wear or a stunning chikankari suit for a formal evening, this art form blends seamlessly into your wardrobe. It complements more than it competes, uplifting your overall style through natural confidence.
At Apka Libas, we believe in the naturality of handcraft. The goal is not just to sell but to bridge you with the traditions that deserve to be celebrated and treasured.
Explore our collection today to pick your favourite chikankari ensemble this season. Discover the everlasting charm of handwork that speaks subtly but shines boldly, leaving a timeless impression.
